Seasonal Update: February

"February is a suitable month for dying. Everything around is dead, the trees black and frozen so that the appearance of green shoots two months hence seems preposterous, the ground hard and cold, the snow dirty, the winter hateful, hanging too long. " - Anna Quindlen, One True Thing. 

It’s the shortest of our twelve months, maybe rightly so, frightful weather and the bridge between winter and March spring. However, in a culinary sense February has more to offer than commercialised heart shaped boxes of chocolates and pancake batter.

The land begins to emerge from its sleepy doldrums, with a stretch and groan; there are hints of spring to be found, but these are few and far between.  Historical English terms appropriately describe it as ‘Solmonath’ (Mud Month) and more importantly ‘Kale-monath’ because of the tough post frost sprouting brassicas kale and savoy cabbage.

Savoy is the jewel in the February crown, but other seasonal treats include chicory, carrots, and rose pink forced Yorkshire rhubarb. Combine these with the on-going availability of potatoes, and other root veg mean there are some comforting meals to take the mind off the unforgiving conditions outside.

There is little in the way of meat coming in, venison is still good and rabbit will be available for stewing, but really focus should be turned to the sea. Mussels are in season from September until March so should be sought out before it’s too late. Scallops are available all year round, but the native scallop is best in these wintery months and if you’re a Valentinus lover not a hater then there’s the aphrodisiacal Oyster.